1992 Judges' Report

Alan Saunders

The Purpose of the Pascall Prize is to reward a critic or reviewer whose work:

• can help the greatest possible number of Australians to experience aspects of their culture with greater knowledge and perception

• can excite new interest in the subject

• is both imaginative and creative.

The 1992 Pascall Prize focuses on Australia's gastronomic culture by recognizing excellence in food and/or wine reviewing and criticism.

This year 40 nominations were received, from all states. We found the overall quality of the entries to be disappointing, a comment which possibly reflects more on the attitudes of the editors, than on the talents of reviewers and critics. Too much food and wine writing is self-indulgent and over-concerned with superficialities. Furthermore, there is often a discrepancy between the interest of the subject and the quality of the prose.

Of those whose work satisfied all criteria, and who could be considered serious contenders, we would like to  commend Cherry Ripe, of The Weekend Australian, whose thoroughly researched articles display the best attributes of investigative journalism and enhance public awareness of the politics of food. 

We would also like to take the opportunity  to make special mention of : Huon Hooke, of The Sydney Morning Herald for his clear and informative writing about wine; Phillip White of the Adelaide Advertiser, whose exuberant, larrikin style of writing about wine, simultaneously reviews society and its foibles; Terry Durack of  Gourmet Traveller and The Age, who writes wittily and incisively about food, wine and social trends; and Michael Dowe, of The Sydney Morning Herald for his gentle education of Sydney palates.

We believe that food and wine reviewing and criticism should encourage discrimination, educate the sensibilities, and celebrate the pleasures of the table, while not restricting itself to the conventionalities of fashion. Writing about food and wine involves social, economic and political issues. The pleasures of the table are not merely gustatory, but also philosophic. Civilised meals, where food and drink nourish the soul and stimulate fine conversation, are central to life, to pleasure and to health. we hope the Pascall Prize will promote these attitudes and advance gastronomic criticism in Australia.

In this context we would like to pay tribute to two individuals who have contributed much in the past, and who have not been considered for this award: Leo Schofield, who set standards for restaurant reviewing and has vigorously upheld them for more than 20 years, and Michael Symons, who ten years ago opened up the whole domain of Australian gastronomy with his book One Continuous Picnic.

The judges are unanimous in awarding the 1992 Pascall Prize to Alan Saunders of the ABC whose work is both intellectually and popular in its appeal. He brings wit, knowledge, curiosity, humour and imagination to his radio presentations and his written articles. His weekly radio program, The Food Program on ABC Radio National and regional stations, undoubtedly has the potential to help the greatest possible number of Australians.  Alan Saunders is a worthy winner of the 1992 Pascall Prize.

Judges 1992

Gay Bilson

Marion Halligan

Barbara Santich